A Quest

A Quest

Consult the Oracle

Sunday, August 28, 2016

Cassie

N40.6811 W075.9202
I sat on the mossy parking-lot edge and ate the steaming oatmeal. I have a specific recipe I've figured out: one packet, then water to a two-thirds mark, two more packets, and a table spoon of granola and a teaspoon of peanut butter. It gets me through the morning. I listened to the sound of a squirrel carrying out a dedicated artillery attack on something down below it. It sounded like a constant barrage, from where I sat. I wouldn't have been surprised to see divots in the ground.
I stood up. What is with this squirrel?
I walk towards the sounds, and I see a small red sign in the woods. Huh? this is curious. I scramble up the bank, oatmeal cup in hand, and read the sign.
CASSIE
YOU WILL BE MISSED
Under the sign, which was wrapped in plastic and affixed to a rough cross of two sticks, there was a layer of fresh pine boughs cut down and layered over the broken earth. On this branch confusion were laid some large rocks. It had the hallmarks of a grave. It was large enough for a large dog, maybe a lab or a german shepherd or a golden retriever. It gave me pause, for a minute, and I left. When I finished my oatmeal, I came back to give my respects.
Peter Jenkins had to bury a dog in woods a lot like this. And in fact, how many dogs are buried in places like this across the state? If you don't have a back yard but you do lose a dog, where exactly is the right place to bury it? Where's the wrong? This is probably not the most beautiful nor the most fitting spot for a touching ceremony, but not only does the dog not mind, she probably loved these woods more than anything. I can picture her crashing through the sticks and leaves, chasing squirrels and groundhogs, coming back to the truck covered in burrs and mud, tongue flapping out to one side as pink as you like.
God rest you, Cassie.

I mounted up on my bike and tried to make my way back to where Google had me yesterday, not that it was working well today. I had no GPS signal, and I was just running on intuition and luck. I plowed my way up a hill and Google came back online. The voice informed me that the hill I had just climbed was completely erroneus and I should have stayed at the bottom. Fine. I'll just fly along the ridge for a mile or three until I get to the crossroad where I should have been had I not made the hill. On my way down the ridge, though, I saw the flash of metal through the trees. Oh! It's cars. It's a junk yard, and a big one. I started glancing through the trees to my right and what I saw just got more impressive. Pretty soon, I was making qualified statements like: "This is probably the biggest junkyard I have seen in years," followed by "This is definitely the biggest junkyard I can remember seeing," followed by "This is just the biggest junkyard I have ever seen, bar none, and I don't think I'll see a bigger unless I look for it." The acres of twisted wrecks and shining forgotten hood ornaments was a testament to the frailty of man's inventions, and it engendered in me an awe I hadn't felt standing above Cassie. And yet, this graveyard of automobiles, though it impressed me, hadn't left half the impression that the humble grave in the woods had struck me with.
How do I communicate this?
The cars were interesting. Cassie was meaningful.
The cars were impressive. Cassie was important.
The cars were big. Cassie is big. She's bigger in my memory and bigger in my heart, and I didn't even know her.

I passed two seats of death on the 25th, but only one of them is the reason I'm writing this.

York

I sat with the book open in my hands for an hour. With any other person from any other place, maybe an open book is a sign that the conversation is almost over and I'm trying to read. But with my uncle, and with me, it's just an absent-minded gesture on my part, and I guess perhaps he knows it. If he doesn't, he's ignored the signal. He keeps talking.
There aren't many people I've met who can out-talk me. These are almost always people who are willing to say what's on their mind right over top of what I'm trying to say at the same time. There's a friend from high school, a person I met in college, and a half dozen of my own family members. Maybe there's something unusual about Van Arsdales, but I'm not here to make generalizations.
"I've been around for a few years and I tell you I haven't seen any of these big cities--I mean they've all got these liberal mayors, right? Liberal governments that want to preserve these socialist ideas, and they just don't work. Look at Detroit, at Philadelphia, at Atlanta, at San Diego, for crying out loud. These cities are just working themselves down into the ground at this point." My uncle's voice is loud and confident and wavery. It's distracting for about a sentence or two and then you forget that age is getting the better of his control over his vocal folds. You forget that he's very old at all, sometimes, and the rascal comes out and you're staring at a high-school kid again. "When they started trying to tax people and create these programs, the smart people with all the money knew what was coming and they just moved out to the outsides of the city. Sometimes, the cities would try to absorb that part, too, like they did in Los Angeles--"
"Well, the city is the county, there--"
"Exactly, but in other places like Detroit, the smaller towns said 'Get your hands off our tax money!' And so the cities are trying to spend spend spend but they don't have any money, and look where it's got them!" He's not done. He talks his piece and then I interject.
"But what about Finland. What about Norway? These countries are surprisingly socialist and they seem to be working--"
"But what about them is working? Sure, I guess in Finland they've got a good education system, but how are they doing it? And what measure are we using to guage their success?"
"Well, they recruit the top kids in each class and pay educators like professionals, so I think--"
"They certainly don't do that here! What did they pay you? Scraps? Anyway, these countries that are socialist, maybe they've got some limited success right now, but how much is everybody making anyway? Are they paying the kid at the McDonalds the same as the teacher? You say they pay teachers like professionals. Socialism is pay everybody the same."
"I've heard they have a high lower limit, is a big part of it. But not the same. And their healthcare and--"
"That's what I'm saying. These aren't exactly socialist countries. Not like true socialism. And true socialism hasn't worked; won't work. It's not a system that works with humans. There's always somebody at the top--who watches the watchers, is all I'm saying. There's no accountability at the top."
Eventually I spit out that Finland and Norway are about the size of Atlanta, population-wise, and they seem to be successful at what Atlanta has failed to do, and that's all I'm saying. My uncle isn't buying what I'm selling.
"You're a smart guy. Do you think it would work here?"
"I'm not sure we give cities the freedom they would need to pull it off."
"Well, it won't work here."
We disagree about a few historical events, about the utility of socialist programs, about the impact of debt, and a few other things. Most of the time, I'm just trying to insert a generous thought now and then, and he's trying to push me to think . . . like him? I'm not sure. I know he doesn't want an automoton for a nephew, and I know he likes the challenge of convincing me. But I'm not sure what he wants me to believe. Finally, I close the book. It's more an admission that I'll never read than a gesture of finality. We keep talking.
The cat climbs up in my lap and purrs with each inhalation and exhalation. She slowly sheds wads of hair into my hand and she licks my forearm and opens her mouth to put her teeth on my skin. She doesn't bite, she just . . . mouths me. Uncle Dave tells a story about my grandmother, how she used to check her sons for pinworms when they were four, just to make sure that the dirt they inevitably eat isn't making them sick. She comes in the middle of the night to check their bottoms, and it's so very grandma to do it that way, and the way he tells it is so coincidental, like it happened (oh well) and it almost wasn't worth noting, I almost fall out of my chair laughing.
We talk about Van Arsdales, and he shows me a couple graves on his phone. The names are almost illegible.
"And then I walked over behind this big rock, and there it was!"
He swipes right and shows me a plaque with the names of all the people buried in the cemetery. There are a dozen Van Arsdales.
"And this is only a two hour drive from here! I bet they're all related to us. Most of them are."

The next morning he comes to me and he shows me his twitter.
"This is my personal twitter account, not the personality. Thats a different account. This is just me. See? It's got my face. Are you on twitter?"
I am. He has about 10.9 thousand more followers than I do. This is shocking to me for a few dozen reasons, none of which include any big-headed ideas about my Internet notoriety. A flitting thought passes through me: if he linked to my blog, how many hits would I get?
"This is what I tweeted yesterday after we talked." He holds up his phone to read it. "'Youth is full of idealism that tends to die in the cold light of old age. Keep the best parts.' That's about you."
I think he's proud of me? In a glancing way, possibly looking down his nose over his pince-nez, humming into the rarified air of old age about how little I know as a young person? I can't tell. Maybe he's looking back into his own past and wishing a bit for that old optimism about how all humans might have infinite potential to achieve just exactly what it is tha they want. He's inscrutable.

We sit down on the couch today, not at the table. I'm at a better angle for the cat to put her claws into me, and she does, up on my chest. Then, as she kneads me, she sits down with her butt on my lap. It's a weird pose and it doesn't look comfortable, but she sounds like it must be from the roar of her purr. My aunt sees it and says "Oh, Lucy," but that's the end of it. I can move if I want to.
My uncle asks if I've ever worked in restaurants. He's gotten to the end of a story about my dad, and he's tied it to a job he had in the past.
"Oh, no. Not yet. I don't think I would want to."
"Well, I had an old boss. He was a good boss: I learned a lot from him, but I was ready to move on. I told him where I was going and I asked for some advice about the restauraunt business, because I'd be doing some of that, and he said 'Well, first: I think you're an idiot for leaving.' And he was right. Up there, it was just coal miners and hookers, and that's not the kind of clientele that keeps a business running. Anyway, he told me 'There's only one thing to know about restaurants.' And it comes in the form of a rhyme. He said 'Cold food cold. Hot food hot. Front door open and back door locked.' Well, I followed that once I figured it out and it worked for me."
"Serve food people want."
"It's almost as simple as that."
"I would never go into the restaurant business. So many of them fail."
"Well, I've made money at it, I've made money several places. You just have to know what you're doing, mostly." He says it's all about the customer, really. He switches gears. We're talking about debt at this point, and I don't want a credit card, or a mortgage. "In the hotel business, you can try to eliminate cost, but it's always easier to raise revenues." I don't know what this has to do with me not wanting a loan on a car. "The board would say 'Why, you're wasting so much money on electricity,' and at the time we were spending maybe eleven thousand a month on electricity. Well, we talked about these motion detectors, these gizmos you put up on the wall and they watch the room and when the lady who's got the room steps out for the day, maybe she's set the a/c to sixty three. That may not be her fault; people don't know how to operate the units sometimes, and sometimes she's just not thinking about it. Well, I can get the unit to reset the temperature--"
"To eighty."
"To seventy two! Not hot, but much better than the sixty something it was on. And lots of people won't even notice when they walk back in. But I tell you, I had it happen to me once and I got right on the phone and I said 'Don't I have this room?' They said of course, and I said 'Don't I have it from three at check-in until eleven at check-out? Then I don't like you fiddling with what temperature I set my room to! It's my room!' So I went back the the board with this idea and we put plaques up, instead, and it said 'You set the temperature to whatever you want it to be, and you keep it there, and we promise we won't mess with it like the guy across the street, who has the motion detectors.' And it said 'If anything is wrong, you let us know and the stay is on us.' And you know what? We jacked up prices ten dollars a night. People felt like they were getting better value, and we didn't have to really change a thing. Well, revenues went way up and I was spending about the same, and just because we were doing things this way, I was able to shut up that guy on the board."
I nod like I understand what this has to do with my terror of compounding interest. His "Well, maybe I want a nice car. And it's my reward for working hard" made more sense than this, not that I would buy a car as a reward for myself. And if I did, I wouldn't pay someone else a monthly fee for the privilege.
And the cat kept putting her claws into the skin below my collarbone.

I should have just laid out my recorder. I should have, not because my uncle has better stories than other people I talk to, but perhaps because he has more. It seemed like all he had were stories and they were bursting from him like a leak in a dam, or the bottom of a boat in an old cartoon. You stick your finger in one and the next one jets out faster than you can get to it. I've forgotten half of what he said and I'm forgetting the other half. I used to pride myself on my good ability with memory, but I can't keep straight which town he lived in when he used to visit the grandmother who had them picking cherries. I can't remember which story he was trying to illustrate when he said "I know your dad better than any other person alive. Who knows your sister better than you? Who knows you better than your brother?" It's true, but I can't remember the context. I've actually recounted the two stories I remember the most of, and the tighter I try to frame the other bits that float up, the more they drift away from me. It's like the old cliche about holding sand in your fist.

I hadn't seen my aunt and uncle for a long time--since a stray Thanksgiving a few years back. It's likely I may not see them for another stretch. But this time, I'll at least have some things I remember specifically. This time, I'll remember how often my aunt tried to make sure I had something to drink. "Do you want a soda? I have lemonade. Do you drink tea?" She wanted to make sure I was taken care of, and that was the first question in the string: do I have enough to drink? How about my clothes, the room, the bike, or food? But a drink first. It's simple, and she can get to it right now. This time, I'll remember how my cousin laughed when he told a story about a fight he got into at a hotel, a fight with a drunk dad who tried to get after his younger brother, and how my uncle came and popped him a good solid hit in the nose. This time, I'll remember things specifically, because I at least wrote it down. But I wish I had recorded it anyway, because things will fade. I'll forget the quality of his voice and how it reminded me of my grandfather I barely knew. I'll forget the heat and the weight of the night air when we sat outside and ate grilled corn. I'll forget, and I'll fill my head with other memories, and I'll remember because I wrote things down.

And I won't regret not having read my book. I know that for sure.

Friday, August 26, 2016

Harrisburg

I live in Harrisburg. I'm visiting Harrisburg. It's weird, driving past Harrisburg Judo and Harrisburg Used Cars and the Harrisburg City Park, knowing full well that there's supposed to be a cemetery, high school, two churches, and a grocery store, only. There's nothing else in Harrisburg. I'm from Missouri, not Pennsylvania, and the mental gymnastics I have to pull is distracting.
Yesterday, when I knew I wanted to end at or near Harrisburg, I spent time looking for Couchsurfing hosts. By about midday, Siddharth responded, but with a caveat: he would be at cricket practice until 8:30. I can't tell you why I struggled with this particularly, but I really didn't want to commit to his host offer. I waited for a bit.
That's when Michael and Cara decided to complicate my life. Mike responded to another query I sent out, and asked if I still needed a place. And he would be available at about the time I arrived at Harrisburg, no muss, no fuss.
I think the problem I wanted to be having was this: will I have enough time to take a shower and fall asleep and wake up rested at Siddarth's house? I think the problem I was really having was stupider: a minor inconvenience was putting me off going to the first host. I mean, I feel a considerable fealty to anyone willing to open up their house to me, but I also felt considerable recalcitrance from such a tiny obstacle. When I try something new for the first time, I have so much inertia getting started that it feels unconquerable. I feel it every time I need to write a paper or formal letter. I feel it when I need to learn a new skill. I feel it when I'm singing or speaking in front of a new group of people. But at the time, the problem I thought I was having was something much darker: am I reluctant because Siddarth isn't like me? He told me today that he's been in the US for three years. Before, he lived in India. He talks with a considerable though totally comprehensible accent. His last relationship fell apart because the girl's parents felt caste pressure and asked her to stop dating him. He is not me. And the thought that this was stopping me freaked me out.
I met Michael and Cara for dinner at Sturge's Speakeasy right near the capitol. It was loud inside, and we yelled at each other about dialects and regionalisms.
"I pinpointed your southern steak!" Mike said with confidence.
"Oh?" I always suspected I had a bit. Growing up in Missouri and living in Tennessee for six years, no one escapes unscathed.
"Yeah! You say a couple words with short vowels, not long ones. Like . . . " He said, grasping for an example. "OK, you say 'Tinnisee,' instead of 'Tenessee.'"
That's very Missouri. I believe him.
Cara leans in: "We visited my family in Kansas, and it took him a week to figure out what my dad does."
"He was saying 'Tires,' which I kept mishearing."
"Oh. Yeah. 'Tahres,'" I say, in a near-perfect mimicry of Missouri.
"He thought my dad was in the tar business."
"You know, for roadways!"
We all chuckle.
These people are like me, though we came from different places. We're college-educated white kids with niche interests. Siddarth isn't exactly like me, but he's a college-educated brown kid with niche interests. And I'm freaking out that it maybe shook me.
But when I arrived at his house, nothing was different or wrong or strange in my guts. I mean, his kitchen smells like curry. But the fear I felt, I think, was not fear of Siddarth, but fear that I would be racist. And that safety I felt when I finally walked through his door at 8:50—that's the true problem here.

After all this introspection and worry, the actual problem is my self-security. I belong everywhere. I adopt everything, without losing my own identity. And is it because I'm white?
In Lowell, I visited the All-Nations SDA Church. It's lovely. I really had an excellent experience. And if you haven't had fried dough with sour cream, you should. But when I walked in the basement door, the latina who saw me first suggested maybe I had the wrong church. She said "There's a white church in Dracut . . . " Like maybe I would prefer that. I just shrugged. I'm not picky. She said "Well, uh, there's a Hispanic church downstairs and an African church upstairs."
"So downstairs it's Spanish and upstairs, what? French?"
"English," she said.
So I walked upstairs. Because even if they didn't speak my primary or secondary languages in either of these services, I was willing to belong, and that freedom  might just be because I'm white. Anyway, that's what I'm afraid of, now.

I'm not from Harrisburg, but I belong here, somehow. If you've never felt that freedom, I recommend it.

Wednesday, August 24, 2016

Blairstown

On the old railway this morning, I saw a yearling fawn. It was surprised to see me, and it stood for a brief moment as I came to a thudding stop, spraying gravel and dripping with dew and sweat. As soon as I stopped, though, it lept away into the brush at the side of the pathway, never to be seen again. No respect.

At the old dam this morning, I saw a family of ducks. The mom and dad were out and about and suddenly there appeared from behind a tuft of grass in the stream seven or eight nearly full-grown ducklings. They scooted through the water, just excited to be there. A great blue heron stood and calmly watched them. When I turned around for a moment, they all disappeared.

At the old mill pond this morning, I saw the fog lift off the water's surface in gyres, powerful tiny vortices that spun upward into infinity: tight tubes of vapor taking the surface with them. Sometimes, there would be a vortex so powerful the entire surface of fog would drift towards that one updraft, a lake-wide effect.

Monday, August 22, 2016

Ossining

N41° 09.358' W073° 52.203'
The wind coming down the Hudson is surprising. It's constant, like the wind I'd expect from the ocean or across a great lake: a wind made possible by an utterly vast expanse of nothing in its way. But the valley, though deep and substantial at this point, is nothing like as wide as a great lake. I'm going to cross the river in a ferry, and I don't expect the crossing to take even twenty minutes. I can see the other side, and with enough detail to admire the weirdness of the cliffs. Why is that one like a breaking wave? What kind of rock is that red cliff? What must this side look like from that side?
As for why I'm using a ferry instead of a road, that's a simple enough story. I like the romance of it. There is a stoic beauty to bridges, and there are more than enough bridges I love. There's one crossing near Cairo, Illinois, that's narrow and steel and blue and makes me think I'm going to die because I spend so much time looking up instead of straight. There's the Mackinac bridge that just goes for miles. There's the bridge in Duluth that the citizens are perversely proud of. But I don't suspect I'll have another chance at a ferry. I can't name another river so large and well-traveled as the Hudson.
So if this is my one chance, I'll pay the five dollars and drift from Ossining to Haverstraw in style. I'll pay it, but it was an ordeal doing it.
The ticket office in Ossining was closed. Fair enough. It was definitely far off peak hours: I got there at two fifty. There weren't any signs of a ferry, either, nor a ticket booth on the pier. I tried the automated tellers, but they only sold train tickets. I could have gotten to Grand Central in NYC for ten dollars. I figured the police might frown on my hammocking in Central Park, so I checked my phone. 14% battery. I found the New York Waterways website. They had a schedule of the ferry that mildly disagreed with the paper copy outside. On 8/22 there's a special ferry slightly earlier? That's today! But there was no way to buy passage on that page. Eventually, though, my savage google-fu found the right page. 11% battery. I went to purchase a ticket and had to sign up for an account. I had to enter my card information. I had to choose a username. Fine, I get it! You think I'm a repeat customer. 6% battery. But the ticket doesn't appear in my email. Where is it and how do I show it to the ferryman?
Imagine you've just dropped a woman's expensive sugar bowl, the one she received as a gift on her wedding day. Now imagine the state of your heart in that moment, the state of your muscles. That's where I was suspended. 5% battery. I, thinking like an asinine corporate shill, went to download their proprietary app. No dice. Not enough space. I have sixteen gigabytes and who knows how they've gone so fast. I have so few apps. I upload all my pictures to Google and then delete them. What could you possibly want from me? I delete a few things, pictures my lockscreen holds on a special folder, the song I downloaded to listen to later (Up and Up by Coldplay—my song of the summer), and an app I don't even remember now. It was useful and I'll miss it in a few months when I go looking for it. Finally, the NY Waterways app downloaded. 2% battery. I rolled my bike to the waterfront park and plugged in my phone.
I'm at 25% battery as I write this. I have to hold the wire a particular way or it just won't charge.
I still don't know when I'll leave (4:20? 4:40?), But I guess it doesn't matter. I'm learning to change my expectations when I don't want to. This isn't a life lesson, yet, this is just a trip lesson. Yesterday, when I was riding uphill to the Weir Farm National Memorial, I heard a strange clattering from my bicycle. It sounded like something was dangling and slapping about in the spokes. It sounded like a harp player with a prosthetic limb made of plastic forks. I pulled over, lifted the front end and spun the front tire. Nothing. I went to lift the back end and just collapsed on the ground. Dang. A broken spoke. I mean, it was inevitable. The front spokes are new, comparatively, but the back wheel has well over two thousand miles on it. The last five hundred have been under heavy load. But I don't know where a bike shop would be.
I sat down, right there in the middle of the road to fix my spoke. A middle-aged Indian couple strolled past me. I didn't have tape, so I twisted the spoke around its brothers and secured it with a zip-tie.  Stupid, but effective.
When I finally did look for a bike shop on Google, there was one only a short distance away, in Ridgefield. Wonder of wonders. The mechanic, Adam, criticized how tightly my cassette was attached (that was either me or Montana or the fact that I am a beefy boy and I pedal hard uphill). He replaced my spoke, gave me an extra, and charged me for less time than he worked. I paid out all $20 I allowed for maintenance this month. I'm not sure where my laundry money will come from, now.
None of it was how I expected my day to go. None of this is ordinary. But I have the Waterways app and I presume that downloading the tickets to it will somehow allow me to show the conductor on the ferry. I have 33% battery. My spoke is replaced.
Helga, at the Weir Farm, has been working as a docent since the farm came to public use twenty years ago. It's a very recent national monument, and she was a caretaker long before. She told me about how the orchard was frosted out this year, but there was almost always a basket of apples for the taking in the fall, and they often made cider in years past.
"If you come back, I will make cake with the apples, apfelkuchen," she explains. Perhaps I should explain. Helga is German. The first question she asked me was if I had Dutch roots, I don't know why: I hadn't said my last name. She said "Von der Niederlande?"
"Ja wohl, although that's German."
"I, too, am German."
She was showing people the Weir and Young studios. She seemed to be full of more information than she could get out. Sometimes, she would start a thought, explain that she had a picture "right here, someplace," and then shuffle through while talking, just long enough to forget what she wanted to show us because another thought interjected.
Once, she surprised me a lot more than perhaps is fair. "You must remember that a hundred fifty years ago, this land was all farmland. It was significantly more denuded than it is today." Imagine this, in a strong German accent.
I barked a laugh. "Helga, you surprise me. It's the right word, 'denuded,' but I wouldn't have remembered it when I needed it."
"Well, I love languages, and it helps that I studied in Great Britain."
One of the other members of the tour was an older man without accent, who, upon Helga revealing to the larger group that she was German, said "Auch bin ich Deutsch."
"Ah! Wohin kommt du?"
It is times like these when I must resist making a fool of myself. All I want is to reveal my fledgling ability. I bit back the tide of ill-formed German.
When Helga ran out of pertinent things to say about Weir and Young, she started taking about her tone in Germany and hope it has affected her appreciation of the farm. She turned to the man.
"When did you come to America? I came here in the fifties."
He was very soft, almost inaudible. "Neunzen hundert dreizich . . ." It was the only German he spoke unprompted. It was just like everything that happened to him before America happened to him in German.
"Then you got out just in time! She continued as if the strangeness didn't happen. "We had it lucky where I lived. We got American culture, we got French culture, we got British culture. We were exposed to different views and a different history. When the reunification happened (this is a transliteration of the word Germans use: reunteilung, the putting of pieces together), it was like they were living a different history! You could teach history, but even people the same age as me from the Soviet Germany, they had a different history than I did."
She was facing a long-term broken spoke, or a long-term wait for a ferry. Her country got broken in a way that makes eighty-year-old men whisper. They had to change their plans in a long-term way. I have to change my plans in a very short-term way.
But what I really want is to feel comfortable with a midway point. I eat, drink, and live a years long change, not hours or lifetimes. I just want to figure out how to do it right.
I'm at 45% battery, now.

Saturday, August 20, 2016

The County Road Apocalypse

I was just sitting down with a kiddie-sized chocolate ice cream. I was still wandering, still sixteen miles from New Haven and the Couchsurfing host I'd set up. I crawled into the tiny child's picnic table, wishing for a tiny touch of whimsy in my life. I settled down and—with a terrifying lurch and a wild flip—the table rose up to meet me. The Snapple bottle on the table, with a daisy and a bit of greenery, tipped inexorably into my lap, spilling water directly into my crotch.
I threw my head back and laughed. I've been having that sort of day.

It didn't start badly. I was staying with Hunter and Valeriia, a young married couple in Connecticut. Valeriia offered me cereal. "You want the healthy kind, or the tasty kind?" Tasty, every time. Lucky Charms! We sort of talked, but it was easy conversation, nothing important or urgent. She showed me how to lock the door and then took off for her job. I watched a little of the fast sashay of the Olympic speedwalking 50k, packed up my things, and got ready to head out the door, only to discover: Oh! I left my sunglasses in Hunter's car from when we went to pick up the pizza, and he was gone to work! I sighed, deeply. The sort of sigh that empties out the corners around your ribs and really digs deep into your lungs. That's why I packed two pairs. I knew I would end up doing this, I just hoped it would be in Virginia somewhere, or better yet, in California. I just pulled out the other pair. Identical Walmart grey-tinted safety glasses. Six dollars. Cheap and effective.

I took off for Haddam and eventually New Haven. Everything was pretty easy, all-told. I was making good time. A couch surfer named Kevin offered me a couch in New Haven, I started listening to a podcast to eat up the miles, and the once-a-rotation click to my left pedal wasn't very pronounced. It was gonna be a good morning.
I stopped in Haddam for lunch. The first place I stopped was triple my price point, so I looked up one that was double but served fries.
I rolled in to the Haddam Pizza Restaurant and Lounge parking lot and tipped my bike against a pole. I pulled off the Gatorade I bought yesterday to take it inside and the woke bike launched itself at me, pinning me to the wall.
One.
I just laughed a little and put it back a little more securely. Walking inside, I found a much nicer interior. I ordered a gyro: tomatos, onions, tzatziki. I sat down outside to wait for my meal. Literally forty minutes later, I ventured back inside to look for my meal. Nobody had brought it to me or questioned why they had a gyro sitting on the counter. I asked the cook.
"You order a gyro, or a gyro?"
I looked at him like an idiot. "A gyro . . . "
"Because a gyro is like a sandwich."
"I had the one with tzatziki."
Two.
I ate the fries and bit into my gyro, satisfied with my meal choice, and found it wildly chewier than I expected. "What's in this?" I thought to myself. It was steak, which I didn't expect. I was baffled. Do I eat it and have the runs, or do I make a pain of myself? I decided to make a pain.
Three.
The woman who owned the restaurant said "Isn't this what you ordered?"
Well, yeah. "I was expecting what I've always gotten. Aren't they usually falafel?"
"Not in my country. But I know what you're saying. Before this, I ran a gyro shop. We had steak, chicken, goat, falafel. So we had all kinds. What do you want instead?"
"I don't know? Uhh a grilled cheese. With pickles."
"Right."
My second meal came out (I waited for it this time), and they gave me more fries. I tipped three dollars. I figured they deserved it, or something. It felt right at the time.
Loading up on the bike, I flipped through my options. Search wasn't working; I had no Internet at all. But Google had found a few options. One led me far north and through a lot of bumpy terrain updownupdownupdown. One led me on a more direct route and was one big up and one big down. That's the one I wanted. Much better, I thought, to slap the hill in the face and get it over with. I clipped in and raced away along the river, thinking, naively, that it wouldn't matter much about my lunch setbacks if I made good time up the enormous hill I had to climb. I zoomed away from the restaurant and, it seemed at this point inevitably, something went wrong.
"GPS signal lost."
Four.
I took off north, stopped after three miles, found I had gone much too far, and turned around. I wandered down the north end of Little City road, took a left on Jackson, and came to a left-right turn and a driveway fifty meters left of straight. Google was telling me to continue on County Road. There were a dozen gnats landing on my eyes and face. There was no Internet service. There was no GPS signal. I was, in many ways, utterly lost. I looked at the compass on my watch. None of the readings aligned in any way with the roads on the map. Google showed some nearly cardinal directions, while my watch was telling me that the most westerly route was to turn right.
"When in doubt, trust your instincts," I said, and began a glorious and utterly unreturnable downhill run. After the ~600 feet I had just climbed, I knew there was no going back. I checked my watch again. Due north was the road. Full sad was my face. I had no idea what road I was on, what the name of it was, what the best direction to go would be, or why I was in this position. I solved my problem by matching street signs to the map, found a route, and finally got back my GPS.
Google told me to go south on 79 and turn right on County Road. Oh no. Not this again.
When I pulled up to County Road, it looked utterly normal. There were no "dead end," "no trespassing," "abandon hope all ye who enter here" signs at all. But a half mile down the road, the road disappeared. There was a big white gate and a rocky path leading on. I pulled up Google. The path existed, right there on the map.
I invite the reader to join me in this experiment.
Look up 208 County Road, Madison CT. Follow the path of County Road as it wends southwest to Rockland Road and eventually Lake Drive and freedom. Now turn on satellite. Tell me the road didn't just disappear from your map like "OH! You found me out! Haha, there's no road here."
Five.
I remember saying to myself "If you're going on an adventure, let's go on a gosh-darned adventure." Idiot.
I bounced over rocks the size of loaves of bread and sped around permanent lakes in the roadway. I had to walk my bike up some inclines lined with boulders and outcroppings. Google faithfully tracked my position NOW, but I was cussing mad at her.
Philip called.
I picked up and spent my time telling at the phone instead of Google. We had a very pleasant chat about the road I was on, and while he was on the phone, my front left bag slapped a tree, driving my wheel at a ninety degree angle from my direction of travel, nearly upending me and tossing all my stuff down the slope. But I managed it. Philip started sounding concerned. I pedalled past a few enormous lakes and then down a frankly ridiculous rocky path—partway. I braked too hard and the bike lost momentum, I tipped left and (being clipped in) fell into the grit. I was so sweaty by this point that my entire left side came away with a thick coat of fine gravel.
Six.
Philip found me on the map and assured me I was almost out. I hooted when I touched pavement again. It felt superlative. It felt like a discovery. It felt like all the troubles of the past could bother me no more.
That's when I found the farm stand, bought my ice cream, cleaned off in their farm faucet, and tipped a full bottle of flower water into my crotch.
Seven. Whatever. Nothing can touch me now.

When I got back on the bike, I discovered that my sunglasses were gone. I went over every inch of the farm stand, everywhere I had been, and determined an important fact: my sunglasses were on County Road, covered with grit. They had been hooked to my shirt when I feel over, and now they were back a mile or less, which, I hasten to add, is nothing in the grand scheme of things. But I just didn't consider it an option. I shuddered and rode away. I left them for the next idiot to attempt County Road. Look up Lakeside Feed (and Llamas) in Guilford. Do it so you can see how close I was to my sunglasses on Rockland Road. I was within spitting distance, and I left them.
Eight.

This is usually where a day goes to the birds and I throw my hands up and walk away. But I can't, because I had sixteen miles left. The last sixteen miles became increasingly less scenic. This is good for not being lost, but otherwise undesirable. The last mile or two was positively urban, And when I rolled up on Kevin's house in a nice neighborhood in New Haven to sit on his porch in the dying light sipping grapefruit seltzer, talking about adventures, I was glad I hadn't given up. I was glad that the bike was there to push me that extra sixteen miles.
I wondered if this trip is causing more pain than joy. Eight to two isn't very equal, but seltzer water and lucky charms can make up for a lot. Thanks, Kevin. Thanks, Valeriia. You made my day.

Wednesday, August 17, 2016

Anne

It's dark in the garden, now. I can't hear the bees in the apiary, but I know they're there. Honey bees are smaller than I thought they would be. I guess I always pictured bumblebees? Maybe they're asleep and maybe they're just quiet.
I can hear frogs everywhere, just like at home. There's a little fountain opposite the door that makes a soft gurgling laugh. And there is, underneath everything else, the sound of Providence.
This is my first time in Rhode Island. I have been to Massachusetts and Connecticut plenty, but never found the reason to dodge over. Well, this time, the state is it's own reason. I knock it off the list. Of all states east of the Mississippi, only Maine eludes me. Someday, I guess.
The house I'm at doesn't belong to a friend. It's Anne's. I met her today by contacting her on Couchsurfing. I'm not her first guest. I'm not her first this week. Yesterday she had in an Italian girl who made the Olympic rowing team and have it up to go to college. I suspect I will be a forgettable episode in Anne's pastiche of new acquaintances, but she'll remain the first host I've had.
Her house is lovely. I don't know what I was expecting, but it's nicer than that. The wallpaper is fantastic the first time, and I don't think I'd tire of it. It would only fade into the background of reality and sink away. She has art on the walls: a lot of it. One is particularly my favorite. It's just a cloud, but the painter has captured well the way light glows when it gets trapped inside a cloud and illuminates it from the inside. Like seeing a cloud's x-ray. The at is sometimes sent to get and sometimes collected. She has a library floor to ceiling with books. I suspect she has read all of them, or none of them. Either she keeps what she reads or she only gathers new, but she's not here to ask.
She offered me a water, earlier, or cider. Just like that: "Would you like a water, or cider?" I must have looked thirsty—I was—because she made sure I got it. Over the drink, she learned a little about me. I told her the edge of my story and she was so sure of herself.
"Oh, everybody has a first marriage."
I'm sorry, what? Yeah, sure. everybody has a first, but I only wanted a first. It's exhausting, working yourself up to make a decision that you expect to affect the rest of your life only to find out that any effect it has will only be residual, because the primary effect has decided to move to Oregon. But I didn't say that. I don't know what I said. I think maybe "That seems very reductive, Anne," but she didn't need to hear it, because she wasn't done.
"My mother was good for me that way: she taught me that everybody has a first marriage. You get it out of the way and you're ready for a real one." Anne is leaning against the kitchen counter, but I can imagine her in front of a lecture hall, with students rabidly scribbling notes.
"I don't like that, right now. When I make a promise, I'm a man of my bond." I was in for the whole banana, if you take my meaning. Good or bad, brown or green or just perfectly yellow. But of course that's a meaningless sentiment, now. The banana doesn't exist to be in for. And she knew it.
"Who cares!" Ouch, if you don't mind my saying so. "She's on her path and you're on yours. If your path was forever, so what? Her's wasn't. And she had to get out."
Anne paused. For effect, not to let me speak.
"Everybody's on a journey, and they can only do what's right for themselves, at that time. If she had a path that led from you, then it's better for you that it happened so soon, rather than later. Now you've got time to get over her."
I know there's no way to change this woman's mind. Anne has lived more life than I have, and not because she's older. So I change what I need to say.
"Anyway, that's why I'm on this journey. She lives in Oregon, and that's where I'm going. I think maybe when I get there, we'll work out the divorce." I see in Anne's eyes a little brightness, like she's surprised.
"You don't need her for that. If you want it, just file. Send her the stuff in the mail."
We dither. Anne holds firm to this point. I try to point out that I'm not the one who wants it, Delight is. But I don't suspect she'll file. Perhaps there's a freedom to ignoring it. Perhaps it's difficult, like taking an envelope with an already writtenstamped letter to the mailbox. perhaps it's more, or less. Anne thinks it might be money stopping Delight from filling. It's not. "So," she says, "you're the one wanting it. So do it." I want her to use pleasant colloquialisms like "you're the one with a bug in your britches," but she's refreshingly, infuriatingly direct. "Don't let this last for a long time. It will get in your head, the questions. Don't let it worry you, what she was thinking, why she did it. It's her path, not yours. If you want it, do it."
Do it.
It echoes with me. I'm sitting alone in the garden because Anne used to be out here and I didn't want to be antisocial, in case she wanted to talk. But like a mystery made of vapor on a hot day, she ghosted on me. Maybe I've got stubbornness to account for. There's a story dad read to us when we were small about a young man who promises to deliver a parcel, but is frustrated at every turn, run all about town, and given a tormenting day. But he delivers, at the end, and proves that his word is good, that a promise he makes is worth more than the hot air it's made of. I always wanted to be like that. And now I've made a promise, and I can't properly keep it because the person I've made it to doesn't want it, won't accept the terms. It's my sheer cussedness that keeps me going, perhaps.
Do it.
But there's more, too. Marriage is worth something to me. And if I am to marry again, how will that bond be more than trash if I treat this bond as trash?
Do it.
No.
I'm not ready, yet, Anne. I know you've seen more of the world, lived more of life, and given me the best advice you have, as straight as you can. But I'm not ready or willing to end this farce with my wife. I don't want her back for a thousand excellent reasons, but I'm not willing to part with this tenuous connection on some moral ground or other.
What I want is bandages and sympathy, but you've handed me a helmet and a sword. I want to lie down and you told me to charge. What is that about?
Do it.
No.
Not yet.
Anne lives in a very nice house in a lovely neighborhood in an exquisite city. She's tall and elegant and she owns a cat. She speaks with force and surety, but she not I not anybody else knows everything there is to know.
So not yet, Anne. That'll have to be good enough.

Mass Audubon's Blue Hills Trailside Museum

N42° 13.128' W071 07.110'

Ken idly poked a box turtle up out of the water with the end of his net. "I think," he said, "it's easier to make laws than to enforce them." He is a slight old man with white hair and a wry smile. He's dressed as a ranger, and he has a fat red knife in a leather pouch on his belt.
He takes the turtles in for the night, every night. It's a giant bowl they live in, with a raised center section bedded with Astroturf, and through a slit in this, a solitary, very real bush. One wonders how the bush was passed so cleanly through the plastic. The whole arrangement looks like a mold for jello or pineapple upside-down cake. I asked whether this was preventative, to keep his turtles from being stolen in the night.
"Oh, yeah. People will take 'em."
Like a twelve-year old, I compulsively blurt what I know about turtle legislation in Missouri. It is, of course, entirely illegal to own, hold, or capture a turtle native to Missouri. Ken lays his wisdom on me and it occurs to me that I hadn't yet thought of a ranger going into a person's house, leading a raid, busting down a door to scoop up a painted box turtle and fire off a few rounds before rolling back out the remnants of the now-shattered door.
Honestly, this story starts much earlier. When I passed it, the Trailside Museum want yet open. Nobody was really in the parking lot, though the wildlife preserve is apparently dawn–dusk. I was passing by on the main road and had to pull through two lanes of folks going to work just to get there. My only question was: what does this Trailside Museum curate, anyway? Colonial history? Almost everything is colonial history in Massachusetts. I quietly pedalled into the open gates and up to a large enclosure, essentially a pit with hip-high walls and a chain-link fence up to my armpits. It said River Otter, but I was prepared to be disappointed. The otters were invisible at Chattanooga last time I visited, and invisible at the St. Louis Zoo.
But there, curled on a burl and floating around in lazy circles, was a solitary otter. It was definitely asleep, but it shifted and woke when I unclipped my pedal. I watched as it chewed its tail for a few minutes. That's when Ken came out to replace the turtles.
But that's not the beginning I was talking about.
When my Grandmother died in 2012—I think—I was in Chattanooga at school. I had to drive 13 hours from Friday night to Saturday morning so I could sleep and be part of the funeral. I was driving through Tennessee or Arkansas, somewhere I couldn't tell you, and I saw a sign on the side of the road: Freshwater Clam Museum, Next Right. the entire concept it so patently ridiculous. I pictures the state senator from Podunkville proposing this legislation on the floor and the brass laughing him back down to his chair. I picture Jimmy Stewart: Mister Smith goes to Little Rock. I almost pulled over, but a cooler head prevailed upon me to perhaps not. I would get in at four in the morning, as is. So I drove straight past the only chance I may ever get of going to that museum. I don't have a passion for freshwater clams. I haven't got the foggiest what qualifies a clam from a crab, mollusk from mussel. And if those categories are like apples and orange sherbet, you begin to understand how little I know about shellfish in general.
It turns out that when a person misses their only chance to see freshwater clams presented by a curator and treated as important academic items, it sticks with him. I've had a personal maxim from that day on: travel with enough time to see the freshwater clams. You are never in such a hurry that you can't just . . . pull off the road. I've already backtracked from Plymouth to Boston this trip, because there was a clam worth seeing. I'll guess I'll do it again. This was no different. Trailside Museum? What? I'm in. Let me see what you got.

But what Ken said, about the law. I guess I have to agree with him, because the same idea has been eating at me since Sunday night.
I rode seventy five miles on Sunday. That's double anything I've ever done before in one day. At the end of the day, I really started feeling increasingly drop-dead-tired. I was drinking enough water, for sure, and most of it ice water from McDonalds. God bless America. I wasn't done by a long shot: still pedalling up hills like a champ. But I was fading quickly. I poked around the corners of the Miles Standish State Forest for thirty minutes before I gave up on the advanced marvel of Google maps (it tried to send me through two cranberry bogs and one private campground) and navigated by guts and luck. I got to the State Forest headquarters and collapsed into their ranger station.
"I'm here on a bike, and I want to know what the policy is on bushwhacking out and camping. You know, follow a trail out into the woods."
The woman behind the desk looked at me aghast. "That's not allowed. Maybe some places, but not in a State Forest!" She said state forest like it held all the weight and meaning of "Shopping Mall." The ranger came out of the back room. She turned to him. "Sam, is there anyplace like that?"
"Definitely not here. There are some places, but you have to get a permit, and you have to prove that you can hold to 'leave no trace,' you know." He proceeded to explain a concept I learned when I was ten. "But you can't do that here. There's just no space in Massachusetts, not for that."
"Ok," I said, exasperated.
"I mean, you could do it? If you don't get caught." It seemed like Sam was tempting me with this. I think being a ranger Massachusetts must be very boring. He wanted to see if he could find me.
"I'll just take a campsite."
She smiled like she finally understood that I was a human, too. "Okay, that's twenty dollars." I gagged. I considered running then, but Sam had a hungry, hawk-like look to him. So I paid what amounted to $20 of stupid tax. No way Sam would find me if I didn't want him to. Seventy miles or no, I can ride another four to the far end of this labyrinthine and frankly enormous reclaimed forest, dig an unnoticeable trail back into the woods, and be gone in the morning before you even consider the direction I went in. Sam. Bring it.
But I didn't. I paid up and took a shower in their bathhouse and threw other people's garbage away in the open raccoon-magnet dumpster. Because, like Ken said, it's easier to write laws than enforce them. And if we all got away with whatever we wanted, if we all destroyed piecemeal the social construct that holds us together, society would dissolve and chassis would reign. But it hasn't happened and won't happen yet. Because I paid my $20 idiot tax.

In a way, that's not what this trip is about. It's about the clams, not the taxes. At least, I want it to be. I want to remember and cherish the things I discovered about myself, about Delight, about life. I don't want to hold on to the costs and burdens of our relationship. Regret is cancer. It's part of you that grows and eats what it finds until you're a thin skin of human wrapped around a whole lot of regret.
So I'm finding clams and paying my taxes.

Sunday, August 14, 2016

Wertham

I pulled up at the red light and watched the traffic: left, right, front, back. It seemed like everybody knew I was there. Good. Watch the light. Pull a pedal back, clip in, raise it up for the push-off. Wait for green.
Then, I heard a crunch like an accident, but no squeal of tires. "That's odd," o thought, and languidly turned to see a man in leather and helmet roll peacefully off a woman's windscreen. The tendril cracks radiated from his shoulder to the driver's side of the window. The little blue car rolled out of the intersection toward me, past me on my left. The biker tumbled off the hood in the lane next to mine. His bike lay prone in the intersection.
I'm trained in first aid. Oh! I'm trained. I planned my bike against a telephone pole three feet away and when I turned back, a woman is knelt over the biker. 
"Sit down! Lay back, I'm a nurse. Don't move your head!"
The driver of the car stumbled toward the man, now prone on the asphalt.
I yell: "Does anybody need a phone?" Nobody responds. I walk out into the road to make sure no cars are coming. They're not. Big help I am. I hear a siren already. Was there a cop the corner, or no? I jog back and get my own phone.
9
1
1
"Are you calling 9-1-1?" a concerned-eyebrowed man shoots at me. I nod. I see the biker wiggle his toes. Victory. There's a man who I think was driving the truck who's out directing traffic.
"Massachusetts State police. Where is your emergency?"
"I'm in Wrentham at the corner of Franklin and South streets. There's a motorcyclist who was hit by a car."
"Wrentham, Massachusetts?"
Oh, my word. I will die. "Yes, Massachusetts."
"Let me transfer you to their dispatch. One moment."
The woman who stumbled out of the little blue sedan with shattered glass is now hyperventilating on the sidewalk. The nurse is now squatting over the biker's chest, shading his eyes from the sun with her body.
"He's alright, see! He moved his hands; he's talking!"
"How old are you?"
"I know, I know, I just lost somebody like this, just like this!"
"Forty three."
"This is Wrentham police. Where is your emergency?"
Was that siren not for us? It passed us in a jiffy. "I'm at the corner of Franklin and South streets; there's a motorcyclist who was hit by a car."
"Are you at the light?"
"Is he alright!? Is he alright!?"
"Don't nod your head, stop shaking it. Just answer yes and no."
"I'm sorry, what?" They want to know what about this?
"Are you—is the accident at the light?"
Yes? "Yes."
"There's someone on their way."
Listen, Wrentham isn't very big, and I'm literally able to see all the next corners on both streets in all four directions just by standing up. We're adjacent the town square. What do you want?
I hang up. I've done my part. The police officer is literally already there, and I can't tell the nurse that I've gotten dispatch and they're informed until after she's talked with him.
The woman from the car is still hyperventilating.
"Does anyone have any water?" The nurse shouts. I do. I grab my bottle from the bike, still full up with Dairy Queen ice, and take it to her. "Oh, it's not for him. It's for her." Oh. I take it to her, but I never see her drink it. The man with concerned eyebrows is gently taking a shard of glass from her cheek. I sit down on the sidewalk and listen to four people tell her it'll be okay. The policeman says: very business-like: "Ma'am, you're going to have to calm down. It will be alright."
I get her attention. "What's your name?"
"Angela."
"Oh, cool. My name is Robby. I'm on a cross-country bike trip. Where do you live?"
"Here."
"Wrentham?" She nods. "It's a nice town. You lived here long?"
"I'm from here."
She's still breathing like she got punched in the gut. Somebody kind is telling her it'll be okay. Somebody kind is telling her to calm down.
"Do you have any kids?"
"Yeah, two."
A man holding her shoulder says "Well, thankfully they weren't here to see this." That's not helping, I think.
"What are their names?" I ask. They're nondescript. I forget almost immediately. It's a boy and a girl. They're 10 and 11.
The police have arrived in force. One is directing traffic. The ambulance pulls past her car and the biker and the nurse. The fire truck is flashing, bright. One officer wants her ID. He retrieves her purse from the back seat and brings it for her to dig through. She's shaking like a palsy patient. He wants Angela's phone. He accidentally brings her son's from the car.
A woman near gives a half-laugh. "What did he do!? I only have my son's phone when he's in trouble."
"He's at a sleepover. I just took it for a minute because I was gonna be right back. I was running to get medicine . . . "
The officer returns with her actual phone. The call she makes, to the woman keeping her son, is nearly incoherent. Her mother arrives. Angela points her out. Her mom just stands around with one hand over her mouth and one hand holding her sundress off her toes. She is the picture of shock, like she's never seen an accident before. And maybe she hasn't.

Angela says a thousand times "He came out of nowhere!" The witnesses around chime in "He was blocking traffic; i saw the whole thing. It's not your fault." The nurse informs each person who appears that she's a nurse. "This is my day off—five on, one off, six on." I don't know if that's legal. The man in the truck has somehow gotten his front end draped over the bike. He is going to reverse off, and an officer is going to watch. Angela's mother is the picture of shock. The man with concerned eyebrows is putting my ice water over Angela's hands to clear any glass off them. She's shaking less; she's breathing weird. The EMT asks if she has anxiety. Yep. The man in the truck calls his buddy to bring a motorcycle trailer. They're going to take the bike: where? It's a Ducati, which I know about. It may yet drive, but I have only seen the uphill side. My guess is that the bike is a losing battle. Angela cries out: "I was still in first!" "That's why it's called an accident."
I take a panorama of Wertham as a reminder of the tumult. It doesn't save; I don't know why. But it gets me to look around. There's a man in a mobility scooter just sitting on the corner and watching. What's he after? What does he need? Did he literally come down here to see what's going on, and if so, was it worth the difficulty?
There's a neck brace on the biker, but he stands up, with help, to get on the stretcher. He has short ginger hair and a beard. I didn't expect it. He looks every day of 43. Angela gets told she needs to go to the hospital, maybe. I never heard it, but that's what she tells her mom. The nurse and man in truck and man with concerned eyebrows give their information to the policeman taking notes, the one who can't seem to talk to Angela without sounding like he's about to lose it. "Angela, calm down." He doesn't need my testimony. I just heard it, and besides. I can't figure out the geometry of the accident anyway. She was turning left from southward. His bike ended up in front of her car. The guy in the truck said the biker started behind him, from the north, and his truck ended up rolling on top of the bike. Where were they all going? Who's at fault? Why didn't he stop driving before he hit the bike? What medication did Angela need that required her son's phone to get? Will the truth ever come to light?

I guess we may never know. But I like that, so near to Cape Cod, I met Angela Lansbury's proxy and stumbled upon a mystery.

Upton State Forest

N42° 12.583' W071° 36.348'
The thunder is so close upon me that each crack shakes my chest: leave! Go home! Why are you still here!? It feels like a stack of books being dropped on me, thud: on my chest each time.
Close! God's drumroll played on my skin, in my bones. The sound is a constant vise on me, penning me, holding me.
That one! The clap rolled through the sky towards me, an approaching terrified god falling through the sky, ending with a tremendous snap directly inside my chest. The roll from it followed for twenty seconds, echoing back from the low valley, the marsh and forest surrounding until I believed that it couldn't stop, and was doomed to go on forever. There is a passing train, a sonic boom, a shout, a snap, a breaking to this thunder. There is a big black booming boss in it, busted, and he knows things about life because he was broke by it, and he's here to break me.

The storm is moving on, the noise of it, I mean. The trees I'm in are still intact; the forest still stands. It's seen a hundred thousand of these impresarios, tempestuous, railing on about death, but always walking away before their forces, marshalled, could flatten the old oak and pine, could strip branch or leaf, could carry through on its threat of violence. I should have trusted their whispered memory and slept without waking, but a silvery sound is impossible to hear over the brassy bluster from my crowded sky.

Friday, August 12, 2016

Lowell

N42° 37.753' W71° 17.812'
For the second night in a row, I am going to sleep literally drenched in sweat. It's not that I'm complaining, I just want to point it out. Because later, when you find my dessicated corpse, you will know that it was because I sweat out my blood in the night.
Last night I slept in the Lowell-Dracut-Tyngsborough state forest. I rolled though a pretentious middle-class neighborhood to get there, struggling hard with every hill. I was racing the sun. There were pleasant-looking people out in the oppressive heat walking their pleasant-looking dogs, and here I come, chugging along like a freight train from wherever it is they manufacture sweat, and carrying a surplus of baggage, throwing off my cargo with wild abandon. I got some strange looks. Finally, I crawled past a barrier designed to let bikes through, but keep cars out. My contraption landing somewhere between, I struggled. I bounced along until I found a likely spot, pulled out my hammock, and collapsed into it.
If there had been even the hint of a breeze, I swear I would have slept like a king, but instead I spent eight miserable hours evaporating. I awoke at ten to brush my teeth: still wet. I awoke at two to use the restroom: still wet. I awoke at six thirty and realized that I was dry. I gave a great hoot until I felt the clothes I had laid out on my bike: sodden.
That was when my mania took over.
In my youth, my family played a game, sometimes, called left-right left-right. It's played in the car, so you can get places faster. The rules are simple: you get a turn to call a turn. The driver has to take the next paved road in that direction. Once, we found a farm selling home-made applesauce by playing the left-right game. Once, I took a first date and played the game after our bowling match. We found a tremendous tunnel running through one of the Smokies. And once, I was chased by a Tennessee homeowner who had a paved driveway with a street sign and a strict no-trespassing policy. Incompatible. But through all these adventures and despite never having GPS, I've never gotten lost while playing. I don't know if that's because you just don't play long enough to get lost, if the driver has an excellent sense of direction, or because perhaps the three kids in the back of the van are trying to coordinate their choices to end up at Dairy Queen. Regardless.
This morning, I played left-right left-right unintentionally. See, Google has instilled in me a false sense that I know things. I looked at the map and thought: simple enough. I just have to ride a while, turn left at the first major crossroads, and go straight through three more. I'll be out in a jiffy. I took the right. I arrived at a T. There should not have been a T. Where did this come from? Was this placed here last night, or did some gremlin steal the remainder of the trail? I turned as best I could, hoping against hope to be right. I passed two bogs and three mountain bike jumps. I knocked my bike over two fallen logs and a rough-built bridge. I was off the pedals more often than I was on. I made this sequence of turns, if you're wondering. Right left right left left right. At least, that's what I remember. I just kept hearing in the direction I knew to be Lowell and I prayed. The bugs tried to enter my brain through my ears. The trail tried to knock me off the bike. The bike chattered and chirped with a tremendous racket. I began to fear that my mother would open her tracking app three days from now and find me still within the Lowell-Dracut-Tyngsborough state forest. That's when, from seemingly nowhere, a path appeared in front of me. A final right, three hundred yards of smooth pavement, and I was in the parking lot headed out. I stopped to gape at the map. There was a handicapped-accessible pathway that paralleled my tortuous corkscrew.

When I got to Lowell, my hour in the woods had not been spent in vain. I arrived fifteen minutes after the welcome center opened. I bought my parks pass—the first I've ever owned—and a passbook to stamp the marker of my having been and conquered. I rode a trolley. I toured a mill. I watched for fifteen minutes as Mike ran an assortment of power looms. He handed me the hammer arm and made sure I saw the rounded bottom, the leather return strap (a spring was a no-go; apparently metal doesn't play well with wood in this application), the shape of the hammer head that cupped the point of the shuttle. One hundred fifty to two hundred passes a minute, the shuttle makes. Unbelievable. I got to make a little cloth with a push-pull loom. I got to read about a girl whose hand got torn off in a power cotton carding machine. I got to hear a thousand times the interpretive historians' boundless optimism for the future of Lowell. I got to spend most of the day off the bike and in air-conditioning. This was a good idea, today being somewhere approaching 95° with tremendous humidity.
And I learned something new and different. Lowell was Jack Kerouac's hometown. It's the center of a third of his books and the jumping-off point for On The Road. How inconvenient and utterly fitting that my own travelogue start in Kerouac's back yard. But you know, I really don't know how I feel about the Beat movement. I know how much I dislike all the young people I've met who do like it.

I rode to the river for a swim, then south to the cemetery I've had my eye on: it's very near the Adventist Church, and that will be useful in the morning. Lowell Cemetery is big. Probably as big as the Moberly municipal cemetery (the largest [needlessly so] cemetery I've ever explored). I lazily cycled into it despite a warning on the gate that they don't allow bicycles. I figure if it's my only form of transportation and they allow cars, it's only fair. Pretty soon, I had a place to stash my bike, a place picked out for my hammock, and a place to charge my phone. The last was near a new construction: curved walls with receptacles for ashes, and a simple columned dome. O.C. Whipple Columbarium and Remembrance Garden. I kicked back. I had a banana with peanut butter for supper. I soaked my shirt a few times in the sprinklers, just to get cool. I almost fell asleep when I saw a thin, gracefully greying man in a blue shirt walking purposefully towards me.
I sat up. "I can't find a registry of this cemetery," I said, hoping he was an employee.
"Go to the website," he fired back, spontaneously, almost wearily.
"All I can find is a list of veterans. Do you know if there's a general list?"
"Oh, no. Not yet." He sat down next to me as if to start a conversation. So I told him where I'm going, how I'm going, and where I started.
"Oh, wow!" This was his common response. I heard it a lot. Michael, as it turns out, is the manager of the cemetery. He told me that there would be a security guard who would come by in an hour. I don't know if he knew I intended to stay the night, but by my equipment, he couldn't have had a more well-informed guess. I diverted. I told him I hadn't found any names I recognize just by walking around.
"Have you seen the Lion?"
"I guess not. Would I recognize it if I saw it?"
"Yes! It's twenty tons of Parisian marble. It cost twenty thousand dollars in 1880, and I would guess that's a lot more now. It belongs to Dr. Ayer—that's why it's called the Ayer Lion—he was a patent medicine man, and he was also the man who discovered scratch-and-sniff, you know, the advertisements. One day, his advertisements, he knocked them over? And they fell into his cologne vat, and he pulled them out and smelled them. He was like 'Send them!' " At this, Michael throws his hand out as if giving the adverts to a messenger.
Michael tells me about a few other notable monuments: a chair that stone cutters come from all over to see, and a hypothetical Salem witch. I stand up to go see them, and he offers to drive me there. "I'm going that way. I'd love to show you!"
At this point, we've already shook goodbye, a clasp that goes on just five seconds too long for my taste. But what the heck.
We see the Ayer Lion. All I can think of is the concrete lion in Lion's Beuth park in Moberly. This one is much prettier. We walk to the chair. It's certainly a chair. "I think they had the artist put a book in it so people wouldn't sit. You know, he used to come home every day and read a book, so I guess his wife thought it was a perfect idea."
We walk to the Bonney memorial. Michael explains her: "She's supposedly a witch who was killed in the Salem witch trials, but . . . she died something like 300 years after. That doesn't stop people. There are all sorts of folks who think she'll come back and kill all the descendants of the family that accused her." I'm as skeptical as he is. "She has a drape, a dress? It's down, exposing one breast. The story goes that when the dress falls to her waist, she'll awake. And the Lion will crumble to dust and suddenly he'll come to life too. If you Google it, you'll find all sorts of stuff. Bonney Lowell witch." We walk to the base of the memorial. She does seem to have a precarious hold on her garment, and I'm almost expecting it to fall now, but of course: it's bronze.
Michael continues. "People leave all sorts of stuff here. We try to plant geraniums. People pull them up. Once, I found a tacky tacky plastic potted plant and I picked it up to throw it away, and under? A card. All in Spanish. So I take it to Gloria, one of our groundskeepers, and she starts to cry, and I say 'Oh, Gloria!' " At this, he reaches out to stop me, turns to face me. His eyes are telling a funny story, but his voice is intense. "It was a woman who was asking the witch to help her son. He was with the wrong crowd. Into drugs. It's crazy what people believe." We're at the statue's base now. He reaches out. "Let's see what Bonney has for us today. A little mask-face. See? Quarters. Dimes."
"Can I have it? The totem?" I'm not superstitious, I just like kitschy remembrances.
"Oh, sure. Maybe Bonney will watch you on your ride, give you luck." He says this with a laugh.
We part ways, and I'm thinking about Jack Kerouac.

The people who believe in the witch are patently wrong, to my eyes. But to them, she can stop a cell phone, and her dress fell a quarter of an inch last year. By the same token, anybody my age who is "moved" by On The Road is a poseur, a show-off. But there are people who read it and love it. I get exposed to these people on the Internet (Google makes me think I know things, remember?) and they've got the wide-eyed wonder of an evangelist. I sort of understood why, listening to Kerouac himself read an excerpt about a jazz band and a treble horn man and the pressing urgency of the wah wah awayaaaah sound he made.
What are my predilections but a transparent fiasco to someone else? If I feel I can see through the beliefs of someone else like "Oh, that thing you love is just popular; you're just bandwagoning, you're just using it to send a message about who you'd like to be, you don't really feel that way," what are they thinking about my passions? Is it the same story from a different angle? Do we all believe in the witch? Does she just have a different name on all our lips?

Anyway, I have a journey like Kerouac and a mask from the witch, so who's to say I'm not part of those groups to begin with?

Wednesday, August 10, 2016

Mount Watatic

N42° 41.806' W71° 53.553'
Ashburnham, Massachusetts

A Walk Across America (here spoiled) made a satisfying thump when I closed it for the first last time. I set it down and stood up away from it. I finally finished the travel saga of Peter Jenkins, a story intimate and frustrating to me. I have mythologized this book for years, and somehow it exceeded my memories. Before, when Mr. Booth read it in class, I got it piece-meal, spoon-fed. Now, though, I've read it myself. Sometimes, I read in great gobs, just raking in the words until they wouldn't fit anymore and I had to stand up and walk away. But just recently, I've left the book to languish because of what happens next.
I reached the chapter where Cooper dies.
If that prevents you from reading the book, so be it. I've never watched Old Yeller or Where the Red Fern Grows, and I am satisfied with that fact. But I've known Coops would die from the moment I unwrapped the book, tearing paper, on my birthday this year. I read it anyway, dreading the moment when I would reach the fateful chapter. And Peter doesn't hide it from you: the map clearly marks Cooper's grave, and he drops unsubtle hints that their forever friendship is soon to expire--say, in a chapter or two. So I stopped reading. I remember putting the bookmark inside, dropping the book into my backpack, and steadying myself for a long session of never reading it again.
But Sunday, I broke my streak. I was packing my bicycle for the journey the book inspired, and there lay the dreaded chapter. There sat Christen. I felt I could throw myself through the chapter at warp speed if I were in public with something for my hands to do, and I could do it though I were unwilling if only Christen would read it. Knowing full well that she's read the book before and knows what's about to happen, I asked. She acquiesced.
Christen read well, and calmly. Cooper died in her words again, just as he has every time someone reads the book, and I cried, just as I believe I did the first time. It was a bitterness, that handful of choked sobs and silver tears. I didn't allow myself to cry as fully as I knew I should. I felt the sorrow like a dull knife enters a ribcage: with tearing and pain. But, with Colonel on my left and Christen on my right, with my knees tucked under me in the grass, I held back the tide. I didn't let myself loose, even though I knew it would strip away the ache, because I was embarrassed. I was probably incapable of losing myself, even if I wanted to. I'm crying now, though.
I remember the last time I cried at a book. I was alone in my room, before even Delight and I were married, and I read The Fault In Our Stars. I couldn't tell you the moment that crushed me, but I screamed at the book and sobbed in a corner. It ravaged me, and I cried it out. But I haven't cried out Cooper. I'm not sure I can, unless I go back and read the chapter again, freeing the words from the page again, living the death again. And I know I'm not strong enough for that.
Christen finished the chapter, laid down the book, and in the next twenty four hours I read the remaining ten chapters or so. I devoured it, because I don't think even Mr. Booth read that piece to us. I didn't recognize any of it. And when I finally slapped the covers closed on Peter Jenkins, I was ready to explore something of my own.

Christen and I planned on climbing Watatic. Neither of us have ever been to the top, despite her three and my three years working in its lee. I knew where it was, and I wanted to climb it. I didn't want to go without Christen, but I needed to stretch my imagination. I needed to conquer something bigger than myself. I needed to feel small. So I went without her. (Perhaps that was a mistake, and perhaps it was exactly what I needed to do. And despite my having told her already that I went without her, she will forgive me, perhaps, and forget it, maybe.)
I wore my cycling shoes, because this is a cycling trip. I wanted to have a bit of a shakedown: what rattles? What creaks? What sounds can I stand, and which are unbearable? Is this bag in the wrong place, or is there any other place I can put it? I got to the mountain without losing any gear, pleased with myself. But my cycling shoes have cleats in the bottom: little bits of metal that bite into the pedals and stick. Normally, no problem. But when I try to walk on rock, they make a clatter like tap shoes and a scrape like knives on bone.
There are sections of the mountain that are terribly rocky underfoot. There's one place where the trail is a series of well-placed boulders that make steps like you'd see in a rich man's garden. Then again, there are sections that are just bare loam and needles, nothing else, all ferns and grasses worn away by a thousand thousand footfalls. And there's not much to see on the hike. Apart from a marsh in the first hundred yards and a rock that's as big as a set of city gates and split open like them too, there's only trees, rocks, and dirt. And people. I met a girl with a dog who lost her keys and a woman who warned me of a swarm of bees, and a girl who (broke my unintentional rhyme. This is because she) was as thin as a splinter whose male companions with something to prove were tramping through the woods rather than use the path. At one point, the trail goes straight up, it seems, and I had to shove down on my knees with my hands because I have crepitus and I hate the sound they make when I bend them.
But finally, I reached the top. 1,832 feet. There's a memorial to a man who was born in the year my sister was, but who died in 2014--very young, but still old enough to merit a memorial for what he contributed to society. There's a geodetic survey marker: my first of the trip! And there's a view. The really good one is not at the highest point, but further southeast, down through a shallow valley between the peaks, and up into a barren span of flat rock, in places carved with messages from fifty, from ten, from two years ago. What a view, though. What a pain to get to. What a noise to walk on. I clattered over the rocks and around a young woman trying desperately to read a book she'd gotten from the library. I asked: she didn't know the title until she looked at it. It had "Love" in the title and wasn't famous, and I guess I don't remember it.

I spent some time just looking. Then I realized: I can probably see the lake from here; Lake Winnekeag, where I worked all summer. I started looking, but at such an oblique angle, all the lakes were a strange shape. Nothing was familiar. Was that Blueberry Hill? Or that? What direction am I supposed to be looking, anyway? I felt really stupid when I remembered that I had a compass on my watch. I pointed myself straight south, where I knew the lake was, and it was clear as day.
I remembered I wanted to take pictures of myself with the geodetic markers I found on the trip. At least: my shoes. So I wandered back over to the first peak and found a different mark, perhaps just a reference mark. I found two other tiny round brass knobs buried in the rock, too. But I couldn't find the first point, and I was getting frustrated. I tried to approach it systematically, but I was thwarted by impatience each time. It's impossible to walk a straight line when every time your eye twitches left or right you follow it. I wandered in increasing circles away from the true peak, hoping to find the marker. Finally, when I had all but given up, I basically stepped on it. How is that fair? I took my picture, mildly proud of myself, and now in possession of two pictures from this peak and one from the other, and all on a trip I never suspected would include any.
Geodetic survey markers hold a strange fascination for me. They're interesting just for where the survey decided they should go: there's one at the base of Devil's Tower, one near Mt. Rushmore, many in the ground at the Capitol, one at the end of our driveway. But paired with these brass plates stapled to the earth, the survey made maps like nothing else you've seen. These are incredibly detailed drawings that go back as far as the 1800s that include driveways and buildings and elevation. If you wanted to, you could find the USGS map of your hometown and make a tiny model of it with a degree of specificity that would take years to complete exactly, but when you finally arrived at the end of it, you would be as close to 100% accurate as if you worked from an aerial photograph.
When I found these maps for the first time, I printed off page after page of them at the middle school. I cut the margins off and taped them together precisely. They made two and a half by three and a half foot rectangles of carefully manicured paper that I rolled up and placed in a poster tube. I would pull them out semiregularly just to look at them, and Delight hated them.
Have you ever had something that you loved and geeked out about, but other people merely tolerated? Have you ever seen something that captured your imagination, but the person you loved thought you had lost your mind? I have. It's poisonous. These maps had enormous potential value for me to begin with, and now on top of that my wife hated them, which makes their total emotional impact on my life staggering. They were some of the most controversial objects in my marriage. That's why, last February when I was cleaning out the house to move, I felt the earth move a foot or two and my heart clawed its way out of my chest. I fell to my knees and felt the dryness of a stabbing sob wrack through me. I found the maps, shredded. The dog had torn at them because he thought they were a toy. Pointless.
I would have understood it if Delight had lit them on fire when she left. I would have understood if they had been forgotten in some dark corner of a storage room. I would have understood if these maps, so precious to me, had been left on my bed with a sharpied message scrawled across them. But this? This tragedy of tiny importance ripped me ragged. I couldn't even get my mind around it, and that moment unlocked memories of joy and sorrow, compounded now by her absence, reverberant and charred as if the church we married in burned to the ground and I was there to watch the bell tower, clanging, crash to the ground. I placed so little importance in the paper itself, but being forced to pick up the tiny scraps of it and carry them, reverently, to the trash can, was almost more than I could bear. I felt like I was burying the conflict in my relationship. I felt like I was burying Delight.
So you will forgive me if I place a little too much dramatic importance in the brass plates of the United States Geologic Survey and the Coast and Geodetic Survey. You will understand if I get a little emotional about finding a new one. You will sympathize, I'm sure, when you see my focus drift out into nothingness, looking into the past, when I collapse next to a survey mark to mourn a loss so insignificant that it memorializes my entire marriage.

I never buried Cooper. I buried a map.